There are two major categories of corsets: underbust and overbust. As the name implies, the top of an underbust corset ends beneath the bust, on the ribs. An overbust corset covers and supports the bust, meaning you likely won't need to wear a bra with this style. If you're new to corsetry, an underbust corset tends to be more affordable and more accessible, not to mention more versatile: You can easily wear it as both underwear and outerwear, which is a bit more difficult with an overbust style.
Within these two broad categories of underbust and overbust are a number of more specific silhouettes. The silhouette refers to the shape of a corset (or the shape it will give you). Many of these silhouettes are inspired by historical eras. For example, a Victorian-style silhouette tends to use a classic hourglass shape, while an Edwardian-style corset has a trademark "S-bend" that tips the body forward. One popular overbust shape, especially for first-time corset wearers, is the sweetheart neckline. As the name implies, the bust area of the corset dips in the center, just over the breastbone, and then rounds over the top of each breast, giving a heart-shaped outline to the bust (this is often paired with a Victorian silhouette for the waist and torso).
For underbust corsets, popular styles include the classic, which ends just below the bust; the Waspie, or waist cincher, which ends lower on the ribs and higher on the hips to focus on shaping on the waist; and the pointed cincher, which ends in points at the top and bottom.
What should I know when looking for a corset of my own?
When shopping for a corset, keep in mind that the numbers used in corset sizing refer to your waist size in inches. Reputable corset sellers won't use sizes like “small,” “medium,” and “large.” Instead, you'll see numbers: 24 inches, 26 inches, 28 inches, and so on. Because of this, it's important to know your waist measurement. To take an accurate waist measure, bend to the side. Where your torso forms a natural crease is where you want to wrap the measuring tape around your body. Your waist will be under your ribs and just above the top of your navel. If you're measuring at or below the belly button, you're probably not at your natural waist. For most first-time corset wearers, the corset you buy will be four inches smaller than your natural waist measurement. For example, if you have a 30-inch waist, that means you should start with a 26-inch corset.
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